From the top, the world is two-tone: blanketed by the whiteness of snow, ice and clouds below, an inverted bowl of the sharpest blue above. At the back of my throat, a cough-inducing coating that, to my mind, has the colour, consistency and taste of
Scolded. I consider myself scolded. One of my closest friends, a dedicated food guru and creator of some of the greatest culinary delights I have ever had the pleasure to put to my lips, has lodged a complaint. “I like your blog and all,” went the tone of her email, “but what in God’s name … Read more
A jolt in the road, roused from a sleep so deep I feel drugged, I peek one eye out from the curtains of the bus carrying me into northern Chile. The thought occurs to me for the first time. It strikes again several hours later when, travelling by daylight on a second bus, I slowly … Read more
Chile’s intercity public transport system is impressive. Buses leave precisely – precisely – on time; those that don’t are met with flailing arms and frustrated wrist-tapping by the next drivers in the queue. The seats recline like dentists’ chairs and the country’s seatbelt laws are both strictly enforced and strictly adhered to. A small screen … Read more
As it turns out, I don’t have an ass of steel at the end of day two in Valparaiso. I have an ass of jelly and I have legs of jelly. Yesterday I walked, and walked and walked and walked. And then I went for a run. Today I walked, and walked and walked. And … Read more
Valparaiso wakes up like an infant, bleary-eyed and disorientated; overcast, quiet and cool. I roll over and go back to sleep. It was a late night – a few beers and a cocktail of nationalities. By mid-morning, Valparaiso is an eager toddler, walking and talking with great potential. Blue patches sever the monotony of the … Read more
Santiago’s blue skies blister down as I take to the streets. I never actually confirm this, but for the duration of my five-hour walk I have the distinct feeling that I am leaving part of the sole of my shoe behind with every step – a trail of sticky black plastic melted to the pavement … Read more
This blog was born of a broken foot. Now, 13 months later, having sufficiently healed, having recouped the travelling money I was forced to spend on medical bills, and having survived my first flight on one of the United States’ notoriously awful airlines, I find myself back where I left off. Bienvenidos a Chile! Sunset … Read more