A slice of life in Lima

They call it la garĂșa. Today, it swallowed Peru’s largest city whole. A dense, white fog that hid the tops of even relatively low buildings, that concealed the ocean and even seemed to make its salty scent disappear, that allowed the sun’s heat to radiate through but not its rays. Wisps of fog drifting through … Read more

How the Amazon made me feel

Our boat driver kills the engine with a single click. It is silent. A moment later, our guide turns off the enormous torch he has been using to search for caymans. It is dark. Except: It is not silent. It is not dark. As we float down the Tambopata River on our first night in … Read more